It's been quite a while since I've blogged, both because I am a bit lazy with sharing the seemingly mundane details of my life here (i.e. fetching water on the back of my bike, swatting preying mantises off my door, and eating acheke out of plastic sachets) and because I live in West Africa, where WIFI is not exactly the region's selling point. As a result, this post is a mélange of many interesting (in my opinion anyways) anecdotes from my time here in Burkina Faso. Enjoy!
March 8th, International Women's Day, is a really big holiday here in Burkina. Kids get the day off for school, and most villages have celebrations to commemorate the women. I never miss a big party, so March 8th seemed right up my alley. In addition, my association was invited to be the guests of honor of a celebration in a small village, Sideradougou, so I was extra excited for the holiday. On March 7th, I traveled with three members of my association on an unpaved road for over two hours to the hopping metropolis of Sidera. Sidera, though it doesn't have electricity, did have a nice, friendly vibe in its city center. I was very curious as to where I would be staying during my sojourn in Sidera, and shortly after my arrival in the town, I found out. Turns out, all four of us would stay with the sister of the president of ATTA, in her Burkinabe courtyard. For the next three days, I slept outside on a mattress next to the two young women of ATTA, "helped" fetch water at 6 a.m. from the pump (by help I mean accompanied but didn't actually fetch any water), and bucket bathed under the stars (which is actually the same as my house at site)!
On the day of March 8th, we all dressed up in our matching March 8th pagne dresses/shirts and made our way down to the festival location. I got the front and center sofa, right next to the mayor. The rest of my association had to sit in the row behind me, in the plastic chairs. One of the perks of being a stranger, a tubobumaso, an American... A grand ceremony started much later than its 10 a.m. projected commencement, and a parade of colorful dressed women and girls marched by, dancing in the traditional style. After the ceremony, the small group of distinguished guests walked through the masses of villagers to the CSPS, the local health clinic, to plant a symbolic tree. Then we ate. We distinguished guests were seated in the most comfortable chairs and placed in the center of the maquis. I looked around, and I realized that about 75% of the guests were men. The women were the ones serving the food; Burkinabe men are incapable of doing so. Without a femme around, they just simply stare at the plates of food with a look of helplessness, until the nearest woman comes to aid them. It was quite ironic that on the day when women are supposed to be celebrated, the men were the ones who were the primary recipents of the celebration. I guess it does take some time to change the patriarchal culture here. All I know is that the Burkinabe men should appreciate the women here; without them to raise the children, make and serve the food, clean the courtyard, and wash the clothes, men here would be lost!
Shortly after my return to site after Sidera, I had language training for a week in my regional capital of Banfora. It was great to see a group of my stage-mates, especially as (in between hours and hours of Jula class), we were able to find time to get to the pool. It was a lovely break from the 90's-100's degree weather we have been having here in hot season. Eating out in Banfora all week was a treat (rice and peanut sauce is my favorite food here), and we also took some time to explore the local marche. However, the highlight of the week was our trip to Tengela, the site of the sacred hippos. A group of us pedaled the 10k out to Tengela on Sunday morning and bargained down the price for entry to the lake. It was as touristy as it gets here, which is really not touristy at all. A couple of Burkinabe manned a little station on the outskirts of the lake, and guide took the ten of us across the lake on two canoes (see my pictures). The hippos live in this lake, one of the biggest lakes I have seen in Burkina Faso (probably about the size of Swan Lake, for those of you from Carroll). We were told, that despite the fact that hippos kill more humans than any other animal a year (apparently?), the hippos at Tengela have never attacked humans. How come, you may ask? Well, simply put, the hippos have an agreement with the Burkinabe villagers nearby that neither one will kill the others. Yes, I thought it seemed a bit far-fetched too, but when I was in a roughly-hewn canoe with six other people, rowing towards the hippos fighting in the water, I believed it, if only to diminish my fear! However, when a very old chief of the village dies, apparently it is acceptable to kill a hippo for the grand funeral. When I asked why the hippos don't get mad that the Burkinabe kill them when a chief dies, the response I got was that the hippos "just know" that the chief died. Yeah...right...
My friend and I came back to my site from Banfora last night and continued to Bobo-Dioulasso today to run a few errands. It was nice being back at site, after I removed the dead mouse from the trap in my living room. For an hour or two, the smell was absolutely terrible! The best part was getting Belle back from my homologue; she was SO excited to see me. This morning, my friend and I took a bush taxi into Bobo, and as usual, the local Burkinabe transport was quite the adventure! I had to climb through the back doors of the oversized van, while my friend sat up near the front. I was surrounded by young guys, one holding a chicken, one an over-eager Rasta guy, and two (the mates for the taxi) hanging on the back of the van, outside. About twenty minutes into the trip, I felt a tap on my shoulder, and one of the mates gave me his cell phone. It had a message typed out that said, "je veux q on pu etre amis sil est possible." Roughly translated, he asked if we could be friends. I smiled and said yes, but when he asked for my number, I regretfully had to turn him down. Instead, I took his number, so if someday, I want to chat with this Siaka, I can give him a ring. I don't think that's going to happen... But it was just another adventure on a bush taxi in Burkina Faso, just like all the other daily happenings that can be both frustrating and extremely hilarious. I guess these are the things that really make living in West Africa quite the experience...
Before I close, I want to give a big THANKS to my friends and family that have been sending me packages and letters! They really make my day, and home never seems so far away. Besides, the neighborhood kids LOVE to fight over who gets to keep the boxes :)
Friday, March 25, 2011
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Address Change...
I changed my post office box from Banfora to Bobo (check the address section on the left)...I would really prefer if any letters, etc. go to the new address! Thanks!
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Just a Day in the Life...
It’s been a long since I updated from here at site, and many things have been going on here in the Southwest. I have been busy meeting people and exploring my village. A lot of days, I feel like I do not have much to do, but yet, the days fly by! The little things, like hauling water, cleaning my house, and biking to and from all the places around town, take a lot of time. Many people have been curious as to what I actually do every day, so I have a bit of description of my every day life here in Burkina, for your reading pleasure!
Each day, I get up pretty early and get myself (and my NEW puppy, Belle) ready for the day. Before 8 a.m., I am usually ready to start working on my Etude de Mileu, my study of the area I have to work on for the first three months here at site, or other tasks, usually on my computer (translating my resume, writing emails, writing notes for English class preparations). Then, by 10 a.m. or so, I usually head into the atelier, where all the tailor apprentices of my association work. There, I sit and practice French and Jula with the apprentices, ask accounting questions with the accountant who works there, and talk with various vendors around the town area. All the time, I try to get a sense of life in my village and what needs people have. Around noon, I usually have my favorite lunch, rice with peanut butter sauce (it’s AMAZING) from the woman next door. Then around, 1 or 2 p.m., when the repose (French word for siesta) starts, I set off for my house. On my bike ride home (like all my bike rides), I am constantly shouting greetings like Bonjour, A nisogma, Sedayougou to all the Burkinabé I meet. It’s incredible how important these daily greetings are!
During the repose time, I usually read a bit (I’m currently halfway through War & Peace!) or study my languages. Then around three or so, I usually strap my large bidon to the back of my bike, and I pedal down to the water fountain to haul water. Other afternoons, I head to the president of my association’s house, who has a computer, to teach him or the accountant how to use Microsoft Word and Excel. I am hoping eventually to get my association to have an Excel-based accounting system. However, neither person has ever used Excel before (actually neither is particularly comfortable with computers in general), so it will definitely take time. They are both very enthusiastic to learn though, and I enjoy teaching.
In the late afternoon, I usually head down to the boutiques along the road and buy bread, vegetables, eggs, and other condiments for my evening meal. I usually make a salad or a stir-fry every night, so I am always buying tomatoes, onions, peppers, and rice! When I return to my house, I soak my fresh condiments in bleach and water and heat water for my bucket bath. Most days, during these evening preparations, I am interrupted by neighbors who stop by and say hi. Many nights, I find myself eating and bucket-bathing after 8 or 9 p.m. when my visitors have finally gone. I don’t mind, however, because these nights, I learn a lot about the Burkinabe and their culture. Sometimes, I talk with high school students who want to practice their English, whereas other times, little kids come with their math homework. A large incentive for them is that La Blanche usually has some candy to hand out J Around 10 p.m., I usually head to bed, exhausted, as the heat, the bike-riding, and the constant French/Jula speaking really wears me out!
So that’s my life here at site; much different from my American life! Still, I am very content with my life here in Burkina, especially each day usually holds some sort of a little adventure. I am looking forward to the time though when I am more comfortable speaking with the villagers, so I can start community-based projects and really get rolling with work. However, I still have 23 months or so to go here at site, so I can definitely take a bit of time to integrate first!
Other than that, I miss and think of everyone back at home often. Thanks to everyone that have been sending packages and letters; you have been making my weeks here in Burkina!!! I hope the winter storms aren’t too terrible back in the States; I will continue to enjoy my perfect mid-80 degree weather here!
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Joyeux Noel!
Christmas has come and gone here in Burkina; though for me, it definitely did not feel like the holiday season! For one thing, there was NO snow here. Instead, the weather has been lovely; the temperature is usually around 80 degrees during the day, and it dips down each night to a cool 60 degrees or so. Needless to say, Christmas was a bit different than the celebrations I usually have in frozen Iowa
My Christmas ended up being wonderful however, as my host sister from training came to stay with me for a few days. Michelle arrived on Christmas Eve and stayed until the 27th. It was great having another person around in my big, empty house, even if she laughed at my feeble attempts at cooking a Christmas meal (I don’t blame her)!
On Christmas Eve, Michelle and I went to the 9pm Christmas Mass at the Catholic Church in town. It was the first time I had been to the church, and it was very impressive. It was full even twenty minutes before Mass started, and more and more people kept poring in. I was amused by the sight of all the Burkinabé people, dressed in winter coats, scarves, and stocking caps in the 60 degree weather, especially as I was somewhat hot in my sleeveless dress in the church! With all the outdoor gear and the chorus of hacking coughs, I would have thought I was back in Midwest America
Other than Mass, Christmas here was fairly low-key. On Christmas Day, Michelle and I visited another American who lives in my town, as she had prepared big pots of Burkinabé food. Afterwards, she and I hung out most of the evening in the courtyard of my counterpart, talking with all his friends and family that came throughout the night. Honestly, the best present I got this year was the time spent with Michelle, my host sister. Even if I have known my Burkinabé family for only a couple of months, there was something really nice about spending Christmas with my family!
I hope everyone back at home had a lovely holiday season…I was thinking of you all a lot!
Not Really What I Had in Mind...But It Works!
So I am getting more used to being here at site, away from my friends and my Burkinabé family in Koudougou. I have been kept busy each day, exploring the area and meeting many people in the community. Everyone here in town has been very friendly and accepting of me, which has made the transition much easier.
Some of the town highlights thus far are:
- The huge garden at the edge of town, where people in the community grow lettuce, peppers, piment, mangos, and spinach. I visited the garden one evening with my counterpart, and he bought me some lettuce, straight from the ground! After I soak vegetables in chlorine and filtered water for 15 minutes or so, I can eat fresh vegetables in salads, which is an amazing change from the peanuts, rice, and to I eat every day here.
- All the fresh fruit and vegetables available everywhere here! Women sell papayas, mangos, tomatos, peppers, onions, and many other types of fresh food on the side of the road here every day, so even though our marche is only every five days, I can find all the produce that I want. Cooking has been a big change for me, now that I do not have domestiques to make my food for me. I have never enjoyed cooking anywhere, but
- The local, bustling
- The view from the goudron. Goudron is the French word for “paved road,” and there is one that runs straight through my town (in fact, the only paved road in town). My site is spread out along the goudron for about 5 km, so every day, I bike from my house to my association, the
The one little hiccup I have had here at site is my mouse problem. I have seen about three in my house as well as two in my outdoor latrine/shower at night. At first, I was pretty freaked out, and I took care to tuck in all the corners of my mosquito net for protection from the rodents, not the insects! I bought a trap, and each night, my counterpart helps me set it. I hear the snap of it when I lay in my bed, and the next morning, a mouse is confirmed dead. At first, I would not come within five feet of the trap, but now, I have become as brave as to carry the trap out to my courtyard, wait for a neighbor kid to remove the mouse for me, and delicately use a piece of cardboard to dispose of the animal outside in the bush.
I brought up my concerns with my counterpart, and he thought the mice presence could be caused in part by the high brush that surrounds my house outside the courtyard. He had an idea in mind as to solve the problem, but I did not understand his French very well. I thought he planned to cut the grass a bit around me, but when he asked for matches, I was a bit confused. He disappeared for a while, and I continued doing chores around the house until he returned. We were talking, and I suddenly heard a loud crackling noise. Suddenly, I realized he had set all the brush on fire! I panicked a bit, as I pictured the whole neighborhood going up in flames because of my fear of mice! I did not believe him at first that the fire would burn out, especially not as I saw flames as high as my house. But he was right; the fire died down. Now, I have not had a mouse for a couple of days, so I think his idea, though not what I had in mind, was effective!
Southwest.Here I Come!
It’s official! I am at my new site, here in the BEAUTIFUL southwest region of Burkina, and so far, I could not be happier. I have only been here for about twelve days, but already I can see myself staying here for the next 710-ish days. Africa , especially Burkina, is a bit of a “sink-or-swim” environment, and so far, I am staying afloat I think!
Before I was affectated, we had our grand swear-in ceremony at the U.S. Ambassador’s house on Thursday afternoon. Unfortunately, I had come down with a terrible cold, so I was feeling a bit down, but I pulled it together for the big day. All 30 of us had outfits made out of the same pagne (African cloth) pattern, and we looked fabulous! This, I might add, was quite important, as the ceremony was broadcast on the Burkinabe news channels that evening! The ceremony itself was a bit long, especially as my French skills are still not sufficient to easily listen and comprehend long speeches. Afterwards, there was a little reception with snacks and drinks, and all of us new VOLUNTEERS were able to mingle with many of the current volunteers that came to Ouaga for our day. It was great to finally meet some of these other Americans that call Burkina home. Another wonderful addition to the day was that my Burkinabe host parents made the trip from Koudougou for swear-in, so I was able to talk to them for a while too. Overall, it was a great end to a fantastic Stage.
Swear-in night, a lot of us went out dancing with some of the other volunteers; it was definitely a lot of fun. However, Friday morning was not so great, especially as I had to get on public transport at 7 am for the 5 hour bus ride to Bobo-Dioulasso. In addition, I tearfully said good-bye to all of my best friends in Burkina Faso marche
My house was quite the sight (I will try to upload pictures asap): It’s a mud brick/cement house with a tin roof. I have three windows, one in each room, and a screen door in addition to my big metal door. That is about all I had when I walked into the place! I hooked up my gas stovetop on the floor, set my water filter on the floor, threw my couple of pots and pans into a couple of buckets, and that was/is my kitchen. For my bedroom, I set my mattress on the floor, jerryrigged my mosquito net up, and propped my suitcase up like an armoire. In my salon, I threw down a mat on the floor, and I was finished. The second day I was at site, I went straight to the carpenter and commanded six or seven pieces of furniture. Now, I finally have shelves for my clothes, hooks for my wall, and a little table for my water filter. Soon, my kitchen counter, bed frame, chairs, and couch should be done. Little by little, my new house will become a home!
The first couple of days at site flew by, as I spent all day struggling to understand the Jula, French, and the local language that I heard all day long. I met countless amounts of people, and I also tried to make sense of my belongings and my house. The little adjustments, like fetching bidons of water from the pump down the dirt path, attaching the bidon to my bike, and then pedaling it back home, have been interesting. In addition, the bucket bath/latrine situation took a couple of times to get used to; I was quite spoiled in Koudougou. However, the biggest change has been my constant companions here…the mice in my house! Check out my next blog entry to hear more about that…
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